Com mais de dez anos de atuação na área de lingerie, a estilista Sandra Bento é atualmente gerente de criação do grupo Universo Íntimo, que detém as marcas Un.I, Nu.Luxe e Sleepwear, conta com 1.200 funcionários e tem suas peças distribuídas em 5 mil pontos de venda no país.
Responsável pelo desenvolvimento de 130 modelos por ano para a Un.I, mais 60 da Nu.Luxe e outros 250 para a Sleepwear, na entrevista ao blog, Sandra fala dos principais atributos da lingerie da Un.I, dos desejos da mulher contemporânea e mais e recomenda um livro fundamental para você, future designer.
Dentro do universo de underwear e lingerie, quais as maiores qualidades e/ou diferenciais dos produtos da Un.I?
A proposta da Un.I é deixar de lado o papel de coadjuvante e criar coleções com detalhes que dão um toque especial à lingerie, voltada para a praticidade. Também apostamos nos tecidos funcionais que não param de avançar nas suas qualidades tecnológicas. E em modelagens cuidadosamente elaboradas com muita precisão e rigor, garantindo assim uma lingerie básica, confortável e aliada a moda e beleza.
Quais lançamentos do verão 2012 você destacaria como mais inovadores/ promissores?
Body Suit - Confeccionada com a mais nova tecnologia LYCRA® Beauty, um tecido de aspecto encorpado, opaco e com maior aderência ao corpo. O alto percentual de fio LYCRA® confere às peças mais resistência, modelando o corpo com firmeza e maior conforto. Essa inovação disfarça imperfeições do corpo e oferece um incrível efeito modelador, firmando e esculpindo a silhueta. São produtos com recortes estratégicos e modelagens inovadoras.
Poppy Print - São peças delicadas confeccionada com o tecido Sophis Light, ultrafino com estampas florais e geométricas com leves drapeados, que dão dose extra de feminilidade e beleza à coleção. As calcinhas possuem acabamento invísivel, isto é, não marcam a roupa.
Essence - Com design clean, a coleção foi desenvolvida especialmente para a mulher se sentir segura em todos os momentos do dia. Um tecido extremamente leve, suave ao tato e provoca uma sensação de refrescância na pele. Isso graças à junção da tecnologia da microfibra com a maleabilidade do elastano.
Como funciona a criação da marca? Vocês têm várias linhas, de quanto em quanto tempo colocam novidades nas prateleiras?
O design da Un.I é voltado para praticidade e funcionalidade onde trabalhamos com inovação da matéria-prima e das formas, menos renda e mais estampados, com tecidos tecnológicos e ultrafinos. Lançamos 12 coleções por ano.
Como você enxerga a relação da cliente Un.I com a lingerie? Que tipo de funcionalidade ou de características a mulher contemporânea procura neste tipo de peça?
Em sintonia com as demandas do mercado criamos uma linha de produtos dedicada a mulheres reais aliando tecnologia, moda e funcionalidade em modelagens cheias de charme.
A consumidora procura um produto que vá levantar ou aumentar os seios, sustentar, modelar e disfarçar imperfeições. Aquelas que adoram inventar moda buscam cores vibrantes, mas sempre em peças de extremo conforto.
Para suprir essa demanda criamos a linha Spice, que traz o básico diferenciado para o dia-a-dia em peças mais soft, com estampas alegres e suaves, em tecidos que primam pelo frescor e têm alto poder de absorção. Os modelos são delicados e bem elaborados com modelagens que vão do soutiã push up estruturado ao soutiã nadador.
A nova campanha traz a top Isabeli Fontana como estrela. Por que a escolheram e como foi a criação das imagens?
Escolhemos a Isabeli Fontana porque ela é irreverente, moderna, uma das modelos mais requisitadas do mundo, dona de uma alegria natural e de beleza hipnotizante, além de ter personalidade forte que tem tudo a ver com o conceito da Un.I.
Que dica você daria para os interessados em atuar no segmento de underwear?
Dedicação e comprometimento. Conhecer a cultura da empresa e o perfil do consumidor. Tem uma frase de Vivienne Westwood de que gosto muito: “O design é quase uma matemática. Há um vocabulário de ideias que você tem de adicionar e subtrair para criar uma equação certa para a época”. Um bom livro é “O Livro Negro do Estilo” (Ed. Best Seller), de Nina Garcia.
Senta que lá vem a história...
Vai participar do concurso no segmento de underwear e quer um pouco de referência para se inspirar? Se jogue na biblioteca da sua faculdade (ou na A...
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